Currently, more than 60% of textiles are made of polyester and other petroleum-derived fibres. Consumers and environment demand for a more sustainable textile production and consumption.
What bio-based alternatives to petrol-based fabric are economically viable? Is it possible to replace fossil-based with bio-based polyester? What are the challenges and opportunities to design the next generation textile industry based on the innovations stemming from the circular bioeconomy?
To answer these questions Biobridges, in collaboration with the BIOVOICES project, organized on the 9th of April 2019 a Mobilisation and Mutual learning workshop, in Biella (Piedmont, Italy) textile district, to understand how the bioeconomy could reshape the textile industry, with a positive impact on the socio-economic conditions of the district.
The workshop aimed to stimulate and facilitate the collaboration between stakeholders for the creation of shared action plans to promote regional development, based on territorial resources, with particular attention to the opportunities represented by the circular bioeconomy for the re-launch of the textile industry in a sustainable key.
Barriers and resistances to the introduction of a more sustainable textile value chain, integrating bio-based products
The local players that “survived” to the big textile crisis, following the arrival of cheap and synthetic products from China in the 80s, tend to be very resistant to any change that could jeopardize their actual market share. For this reason, although they are interested in sustainability issues (also because the consumers are demanding for this), in practice they tend to be conservative and close to novelties, potentially risky.
Drive a change in bioeconomy is more feasible when it comes to application fields (like food packaging, toys, cosmetics) where health is the main driver, while in the textile domain other drivers prevail, like the fashion, the good fit, the low cost (disposable fashion).
The strong resistance to change in textile sector, suggest that the bioeconomy scale-up is more likely to take place in areas in which the consumer’s demand is more pressing the industries to adopt different business models. The role of bioeconomy in textile sector is more easily applicable to processes like yarn and fabric dyeing and finishing, as well as waste waters treatment, etc.
The role of consumers in driving the change
Only a low percentage of the population is informed about the problems of fossil based fabric on humans and the environment. Customer cannot have a way to verify the actual veracity of what they are buying, therefore they have to trust in Brands and Labels, when it comes to sustainability.
Consumers are interested in companies' green strategies. 100% of the participants at the workshop claimed that there is a market demand for bio-based products and sustainable textile processes.
Awareness, information and knowledge are the essential elements to drive the change. The use of a terminology that everyone can understand is crucial. There is a need to identify and set-up a correct and clear communication for the consumers, who does not have the necessary tools to understand the language of the textile sector.
One of the fundamental points that emerged is that fashion is the main purchase driver, rather than quality or sustainability. For this reason Bioeconomy in Italy should enhance the "Made in Italy" and find new market niches and increase consumer’s trust in bio-based products.
Collaboration along the value chain players
The workshop emphasised the need to facilitate the connection among the players along the textile value chain, to jointly address common challenges. Moreover, the cross contamination among different value chains (i.e. bioplastic and textile) could generate new products, processes and business opportunities.
The current challenges along the value chain involve all actors, from feedstock producers, to bio-based industries, from retailers and brands to consumers.
In parallel to the commitment of the value chain players, a supportive environment is needed, where the role of research to provide solutions and the policy to ensure stable legislation framework and funding are key to drive the change toward a more sustainable textile industry.
The contribution of actors facilitating the process, like Clusters or EU funded projects is necessary to promote the collaboration among the value chain players to address the joint challenges, boost the knowledge exchange, and facilitate the development of new value chains.